As could possibly be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has already established many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe along with a suit. But while many of his attempts to toughen up are already met with derision, the newest part of the Biebvolution is actually bang about the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been lots of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not everybody gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your own wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for guys, but the single thing you might never call it is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore for the teen awards, has become integral towards the boost in interest in denim and of jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, that has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that was roughly cut off with the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; up close, the holes in these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – can there be in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers popular, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. In the short video to accompany this shoot, you may also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is This Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff had also been around just about the most talked-about moments of your spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes which were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a switch on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is simply set to keep: following the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
In reality, if everything else fails, the real key for this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear for the past couple of years. And then finally, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you know what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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