The world of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for all. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one around see what all of the hoopla was with this particular drifter.
WHO Can Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal selecting it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very economical price. Handling is good also as soon as you become accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts an incredibly number of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, and this car should grow with you when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts on the bottom for that front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these are used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find a number of left empty. They can be utilized to control chassis flex, although not together with the stock top deck; an optional you need to be bought. The layout is just like a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Other than several interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll as the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious amount of steering throw they have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as near the edges of the chassis as possible. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, in which the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a variety of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 some beauty, I opted for 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, nevertheless i do remember a technique I used a while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the surface using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
About The TRACK
For this particular test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to accomplish a photograph shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is pretty amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Including the CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look just a little funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the proper direction. This is, in part, because of the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish just that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to change the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, along with the Novak system is made for that. I did have to be a little bit creative using the install from the system as a result of small space about the chassis, but overall it resolved great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it will require a little getting used to with the knowledge that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the correct way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you have it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at lower than two or three inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, along with the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you think just like you require more of something anything there’s plenty of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the auto using the kit setup and it was just a matter of a battery pack or two before I found myself swinging the back across the hairpins, across the carousel and backwards and forwards throughout the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.
There’s not much you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going all of that fast. I have done, however, provide an issue with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a little bit drag brake. I kept from it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it straight into actually check it out. During the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.